givenchy ss 20 | Givenchy spring couture

Clare Waight Keller’s Givenchy Spring Summer 2020 Haute Couture collection was a masterclass in duality. It was a breathtaking exploration of contrasts, a delicate dance between rigorous structure and flowing drapery, between the historical grandeur of the Givenchy atelier and a modern, almost subversive, sensibility. It was a collection that demanded attention, not just for its undeniable beauty, but for its intricate construction and the powerful narrative it wove around femininity, strength, and self-expression.

The collection, presented at the historic Hôtel d’Évreux in Paris, was not just a display of exquisite craftsmanship; it was a statement. Waight Keller, in her final couture collection for the house, seemed to be both honoring the legacy of Hubert de Givenchy and boldly pushing the boundaries of what couture could be. The show notes alluded to the “alchemy of transformation,” hinting at the metamorphosis of raw materials into wearable art, and the personal evolution of the woman who wears them.

Givenchy Spring 2020: A Lineage of Legacy

To understand the impact of the Givenchy Spring 2020 Haute Couture collection, it's crucial to contextualize it within the broader framework of Givenchy's history. Hubert de Givenchy, the founder of the house, was renowned for his impeccable tailoring, his clean lines, and his ability to create timeless elegance. He dressed some of the most iconic women in history, including Audrey Hepburn, whose image is inextricably linked to the Givenchy aesthetic.

Waight Keller took on the monumental task of preserving this legacy while infusing it with her own vision. She consistently sought to capture the essence of Givenchy's DNA – the refined sophistication, the meticulous attention to detail, and the enduring power of classic silhouettes – but she did so with a distinctly modern twist. This collection, in particular, felt like a culmination of her efforts, a synthesis of heritage and innovation.givenchy ss 20

Givenchy Spring Couture: Deconstructing the Feminine Ideal

The Givenchy Spring Couture collection was not simply about beautiful dresses; it was about deconstructing and reimagining the feminine ideal. Waight Keller presented a spectrum of looks that challenged conventional notions of femininity, moving beyond the stereotypical association with fragility and passivity. Instead, she celebrated strength, confidence, and individuality.

This subversion was evident in the juxtaposition of hard and soft elements throughout the collection. Structured jackets with sharp shoulders were paired with flowing skirts made of delicate fabrics like chiffon and organza. Corsetry, a recurring motif in the collection, was not presented as a symbol of constraint but rather as a source of power and support. It was used to define the waist and create dramatic silhouettes, but it was often exposed, revealing the intricate construction beneath the surface.

The color palette also played a significant role in this deconstruction. While traditional couture often favors soft pastels and romantic hues, Waight Keller incorporated a range of bolder, more assertive colors, including deep blues, vibrant reds, and shimmering metallics. These colors, combined with the strong silhouettes, created a sense of dynamism and energy that felt distinctly modern.

Givenchy Couture: The Art of Craftsmanship

At its heart, the Givenchy Spring 2020 Haute Couture collection was a testament to the art of craftsmanship. Each garment was a work of art, meticulously crafted by skilled artisans in the Givenchy atelier. The collection showcased a wide range of techniques, including intricate embroidery, delicate lacework, and innovative fabric manipulation.

One of the most striking examples of this craftsmanship was the use of pleating. Waight Keller experimented with a variety of pleating techniques, creating textures and volumes that were both visually stunning and structurally complex. Some garments featured tightly packed accordion pleats that created a dramatic, sculptural effect, while others featured looser, more flowing pleats that added a sense of movement and fluidity.

Embroidery was another key element of the collection. Many of the garments were adorned with intricate floral motifs, geometric patterns, and abstract designs, all meticulously hand-embroidered by skilled artisans. These embroideries added a layer of richness and depth to the garments, transforming them into true works of art.

The collection also featured innovative uses of fabric. Waight Keller experimented with different textures and finishes, combining traditional couture fabrics like silk and chiffon with more unexpected materials like leather and metal. She also explored techniques like laser cutting and 3D printing to create unique and innovative designs.

Key Looks and Recurring Themes:

Several key looks and recurring themes emerged throughout the Givenchy Spring 2020 Haute Couture collection:

* The Power Suit Reimagined: Waight Keller presented a series of power suits that were both elegant and assertive. These suits featured sharp shoulders, tailored waists, and strong silhouettes, but they were also softened by the use of delicate fabrics and feminine details. One standout look featured a black velvet blazer with exaggerated shoulders paired with a flowing silk skirt.

* Corsetry as Empowerment: As mentioned earlier, corsetry played a central role in the collection. It was used to define the waist and create dramatic silhouettes, but it was also often exposed, revealing the intricate construction beneath the surface. This exposure of the corset was not meant to be provocative but rather to highlight the artistry and craftsmanship involved in its creation.