The Givenchy Spring/Summer 2019 show, a culmination of Clare Waight Keller's vision, remains a pivotal moment in the house's storied history. Presented as the Givenchy SS19 Show that triumphantly closed Paris Fashion Week, the collection, which can be viewed in its entirety on Vogue Runway, offered a compelling dialogue between structured tailoring and ethereal romance, a duality that has come to define Waight Keller's tenure at the French fashion house. This article will delve into the intricacies of the Givenchy SS19 Ready-to-Wear collection, exploring its key themes, silhouettes, and influences. We will also briefly touch upon the related Givenchy SS19 Haute Couture show and its presentation, providing a comprehensive overview of Givenchy's offerings for the Spring/Summer 2019 season.
A Collection of Contrasts: Power Dressing Meets Delicate Sensibility
The Givenchy SS19 show was not merely a presentation of clothes; it was a carefully orchestrated narrative. Waight Keller masterfully juxtaposed the power dressing associated with the brand’s heritage with a softer, more feminine sensibility. This duality was evident in every aspect of the collection, from the color palette to the choice of fabrics and the overall styling.
On one hand, the collection featured sharp tailoring, reminiscent of Hubert de Givenchy’s iconic designs for Audrey Hepburn. Think impeccably cut blazers, tailored trousers, and structured dresses that exuded confidence and sophistication. These pieces were often rendered in classic colors like black, white, and navy, emphasizing their timeless appeal.
However, this structured foundation was softened by the introduction of delicate fabrics, romantic silhouettes, and ethereal details. Flowing silk dresses, adorned with delicate floral prints and intricate lace embellishments, added a touch of whimsy and femininity. The collection also featured sheer fabrics and ethereal layering, creating a sense of lightness and movement.
This interplay between strength and vulnerability was a defining characteristic of the Givenchy SS19 show. Waight Keller seemed to be exploring the multifaceted nature of modern womanhood, celebrating both the power and the grace that reside within.
Key Themes and Influences: A Celebration of Femininity and Modernity
Several key themes and influences permeated the Givenchy SS19 Ready-to-Wear collection, contributing to its overall coherence and impact:
* The Power Suit Reimagined: As mentioned earlier, tailoring played a crucial role in the collection. However, Waight Keller didn't simply replicate classic power suits. Instead, she reimagined them for the modern woman, incorporating softer silhouettes, unexpected details, and feminine fabrics. For example, a classic blazer might be paired with a flowing silk skirt, or a tailored trouser suit might be rendered in a lighter, more vibrant color. This approach allowed the power suit to retain its inherent authority while also exuding a sense of effortless chic.
* Floral Prints and Embellishments: Floral motifs were a recurring theme throughout the collection, adding a touch of romance and femininity. These weren't just any floral prints; they were carefully chosen and artfully applied, often appearing as delicate embroideries, intricate lace embellishments, or bold, graphic prints. The floral elements served as a counterpoint to the more structured pieces, softening their lines and adding a touch of whimsy.
* Sheer Fabrics and Layering: Sheer fabrics and strategic layering were used to create a sense of lightness and movement. Delicate silk chiffon and tulle were draped and layered to create ethereal dresses and skirts that seemed to float around the body. This technique added a sense of transparency and vulnerability to the collection, further emphasizing the theme of feminine fragility.
* Color Palette and Texture: The color palette of the Givenchy SS19 show was both sophisticated and versatile. Classic neutrals like black, white, and navy were punctuated by pops of vibrant color, including shades of pink, red, and yellow. The collection also featured a range of textures, from smooth silk and crisp cotton to delicate lace and textured tweed. This interplay of color and texture added depth and visual interest to the collection.
* Inspiration from the Givenchy Archive: While Waight Keller brought her own unique vision to the collection, she also paid homage to the house’s rich heritage. She drew inspiration from the Givenchy archive, referencing iconic designs and incorporating signature details. This connection to the past added a sense of authenticity and continuity to the collection.
Silhouettes and Styling: A Modern Take on Classic Elegance
The silhouettes in the Givenchy SS19 Ready-to-Wear collection were a blend of classic and contemporary. There were structured dresses with defined waistlines, flowing skirts that skimmed the body, and tailored trousers that flattered the figure. The collection also featured oversized pieces, such as slouchy sweaters and voluminous coats, which added a touch of effortless cool.
The styling of the show was equally impactful, contributing to the overall message of the collection. Models wore their hair in sleek, pulled-back styles, which emphasized their strong features. The makeup was minimal and natural, allowing the clothes to take center stage. Accessories were kept to a minimum, with simple jewelry and elegant handbags completing the looks.
The overall effect was one of understated elegance, a modern take on classic Givenchy style. The styling choices reinforced the idea that less is more, allowing the beauty and craftsmanship of the clothes to shine through.